Located at the most southern tip of South Sulawesi’s peninsula, 153 kilometers south of Makassar, lies the district of Bulukumba
, holding hidden marvels in its pristine beaches, underwater gardens,
and unique maritime culture. The district is also known as Butta
Panrita Lopi or ‘the land of the phinisi schooners” for its long
tradition in building these majestic crafts, the pride of the Bugis
people.
According to the ancient I La Galigo manuscript, phinisi schooners have been built since the 14th century. These schooners are mostly crafted in the area called Tanah Beru, located about 23 kilometers from the capital of Bulukumba, or 176 kilometers from Makassar.
Along the shores of Tanah Beru,
you will see tens of dry-docks where phinisi schooners are in various
stages of construction. Here the skillful hands of the Bugis with
amazing precision, carefully craft the Phinisi that has become the icon
of Indonesian seafaring. The Phinisi is built using traditional
equipment following exact prescribed traditional techniques that have
been passed down from generation to generation. Its construction does
not only involve strength and technique but also – as the locals believe
– supernatural powers, for which every stage requires strictly adhered
rituals and ceremonies.
(More information on the construction of the phinisi can be found at: The Bugis Phinisi Schooner)
Further south, at the most southern tip of the district, about 200 kilometers from Makassar, the secluded white sandy beach, crystal clear calm waters and indulging breeze await at the Tanjung Bira Beach.
Its location alone has made it a special place, where the sun rises and
sets magnificently along a straight line. Here the luxurious Amatoa
Resort provides magnificent views on the vast spreading white sand,
making this a perfect spot for sunbathing, snorkeling and diving.
Far on the horizon, the scenic view of the island of Selayar adds to the splendor of the beach. While, not too far from shore, the Liukang and Kambing
or Goat Islands welcome visitors to step in their pristine environment.
There are several boats along the coast that are more than willing to
take you to the islands. The seas off Tanjung Bira and around Selayar
are also ideal for diving. Around Bira are fringing reefs, but most
outstanding by far are the sheer walls at Kambing island, where a stark
slab of rock rises out of the ocean between Bira and Selayar. Here the
coral cover and schools of fish offer fantastic underwater scenes.
The word “Bulukumba” is believed to be
derived from the Bugis phrase “Bulu’ku Mupa”, which loosely translated
means “still my mountain”. The name appeared in the 17th century, when a war broke out between two kingdoms of South Sulawesi, namely the kingdoms of Gowa and Bone. At the time, the ridge of Mount Lompobattang
, known as “Bengkeng Buki”, - which means “foot of the hill”, - was
claimed by The Gowa Kingdom. The Bone Kingdom, however, refuted the
claim and defended the area with all they had. From this battle came
the passionate outcry: ”bulu’ku mupa!” or “still my mountain”. Gradually
its pronunciation shifted to cover the entire area of Bulukumba.
Bulukumba is also the home of a special ethnic group called the Kajang.
For centuries they inhabited the interior area of the Kajang regency in
an area called Tana Toa, which they regard as having been bestowed to
them by their ancestors. Until this day, the Kajang still practice age
-old traditions and ways of life that teach men to maintain perfect
harmony with nature. Living in simplicity, none of the houses have any
furniture, electricity, and other modern convenience.The Kajang also
wear black as their daily attire. For to the people of Kajang, modernity deviates from customary rules and ancestral teachings.
Watching the magnificent phinisi schooners being built, enjoying the white beaches, and the splendors below the sea, Bulukumba is truly worth a visit as you venture into the wonders of South Sulawesi.